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Collections — Woman / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1983

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

“When I imagine a woman for my collection she looks like Ava Gardner in “Mocambo,” with her smile and her way of indulging herself. Velvety eyes and inky eyebrows, tempestuous hair and emerald earrings. I do not only envision a particular face but also a personality. A strong-willed, energetic allure, a deep slightly throaty voice. Because I have chosen straight lines, basic colors, classic themes: absolute severity to satisfy the most complicated characters. I also imagine an environment, a tropical landscape, perhaps Mexico or Haiti. It is a feeling, a summary of impressions. Scents, spices, cocoa and rum, a warmth which rises from the fingertips and beads the forehead, a campesino’s work shirt, a ripe fruit split in half. Tobacco and a panama to shade the face. The most mannish of hats above a mouth dark with lipstick.”

(Notes from Gianfranco Ferré’s conversation in 25/9/’82)

“… The difficult beauty of simple lines”.

Gabriele D’Annunzio

Eliminate the dart. Eliminate the lining. Eliminate the buttons. And what remains is a continuous form, a soft structure which takes its volume from the shoulders, with enormous and light bat sleeves. The shirts are carried out in a single piece with a seam at the side, drapery in front. Or two strips of very close pleating to be crossed and to be closed by a leather belt. Or a cascade of silk charmeuse, slimly folded like a scarf. Soft loose box jackets in crisp gabardine: perfectly double, one over the other, in order to substitute linings and reinforcements. Duster coats with a screen in fabric, and a horizontal pocket which becomes a pouch. Facecloth jackets with a lining like a gilet. The impulse of a step is enough to make everything wave, moving and whirling round the body.

“… Luxury is the pleasure of the spirit”.

Oscar Wilde

Raw silk, silk charmeuse, heavy silk satin, silk shantung: to double the front of a grisaille jacket; for the dress printed with huge tobacco leaves, with exaggerated sleeves arising from slim hips; for the blouse-dress loosely touching the waist; for the tuxedo, with or without sleeves, with asymmetrical drapery; for the tuxedo pants, a bunch of ironed pleats instead of the glossy sidebands. Suede, soft and velvety: for the wide straight farmer’s overalls; for the oversized blouson resting on hips; for the deeply plunging maillots; for the rag-skirt with a matting-type adjustable belt.

“Two women were prostrate in front of a big earthernware jar, under which a low fire was burning in a hole in the ground. And one took a handful of dried flowers, of a yellow brownish color, and threw them into the water. And she watched the flowers coming to the surface and slowly going round in the boiling water. Then she poured a white powder on it”.

D. H. Lawrence

Primitive natural colors, of land with dry burnt earth: cocoa seed brown, roasted coffee brown, white, milk white, sugar cane brown, black. The hues of berries and fruits: bilberry, blackberry juice, leaf green. Always blended with dark, intense, almost nocturnal shades.

Hairstyling: STUDIO COPPOLA

Makeup: “The Professional” OLGA TSCHECHOWA by MAKE UP STUDIO

Photographs: BOB KRIEGER