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Collections — Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1992

Press Release

 «A realm of impressions reflecting “an East and West which cannot be taken here as reality… in question, rather, is the possibility of a difference, a change, a revolution in the propriety of symbolic systems”.

(Roland Barthes).

 

As in a voyage within and around myself, for each collection I give precise shape to sensations and ideas. I delve into my memory and draw out concepts, references, images that pass in a flash… If really seen or simply dreamt, I cannot tell for sure, for in their recalling I weave them into one… the result is an overlapping of certain portraits of formidable and eccentric women, true turn-of-the-century dandies, the splendors of chinoiseries, romantic and exotic moods, in a synthesis of sumptuous cleanliness, magnificent severity… Because only opposites come together in harmony.»

Gianfranco Ferré

 

A vague anglophile feeling in the gray reminiscent of natural hues, tobacco and red… The magical red of Chinese lacquers, and the roughness of surfaces emblematic of elephant hide (surprisingly, however, the effect comes from an alpaca mohair). Red and black checks in mix with oriental decors… The colors of amber, cornelian and gold in all possible tones. From a clean form of luxury a modern, feminine style emerges in all naturalness. A silhouette featuring a high waist, a light leanness… with a jacket smoothly snug in back, full in front and firmly belted; with an elementary collarless suit, almost buttonless… The soft volume of the quilted fabrics offers a warmth free of weight: in the zippered parachute-silk coat with swallowtail cut, in the red and orange jackets in jersey and velvet (worn comfortably with pants, flats, sexy skirt)… Illusions and allusions, interlacings… the ultralight lacquered nylon gives rise to a seemingly sumptuous jacket with fur borders. The crushed velvets blend with the rough volume of marmot fur, while the pleated white blouse becomes a jacket…

Gold mixes with the crinkled leather in a lamb effect, brocades with the pure gold of a plissé skirt.

But in the play of overlappings and eccentricity, the long long robe-coat (perhaps of the Wally Simpson-in-China genre?) allows for a blazer with lion-head sculpture-buttons and a tartan jacket with gold-embroidered lapels over black pants. In a Scottish cadette style.

 

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Fabrics and yarns: Agnona - Borgomaneri - Canepa - Clerici - Cugnasca - Dondi Jersey - Etro - Fila - F.P.R. - Ghioldi - Hurel - Jackytex - Lanificio Colombo - Linea Più - Manifattura Pratese - Piacenza - Ratti - Ricceri - Serikos - Seterie Colombo - Sordevolo - Spriano - Taroni - Tecnostyle Tessilcar - TJSS - Tollegno 900 - Torello Viera - Verga

IWS

Shoes: Gianfranco Ferré

Bijoux: Gianfranco Ferré

Hosiery: Gianfranco Ferré

Makeup: Francesca Tolot for Freelancer  Products from “The Professionals” line by Diana De Silva

Hairstyling: Aldo Coppola for l’Oreal Coiffure

Fashion show director: Alberto Garbati