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Collections — Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 1979

Press Release

The inspiration: feminine figures cool and easy, deep hues offset by primary colors or in stark contrast with pure white, a long hot season, summer wind, sea, starry nights…

The collection: pantsuits in suede or in close-textured mannish fabrics; waterproof melton peacoats and toile de bache or cashmere knit cabans; ultralight dusters in glove suede; sundresses in washable chamois leather; linen cardigans and robes with vanisé striping in classic mariner tones; shirt-cardigans to drape over pants in dazzling colors; simple wrap-around skirts to sport over maillot-bodysuits with natural drapings; crepe de chine slip-dresses to go under single-ribbed knit cabans; lusciously light and feminine slipover tops on bare skin, to wear with crepe de chine pants.

The lines: the figure is linear, elongated; shoulders are strong and constructed; sleeves are always very soft, though vary in size on the basis of the garment’s function; collars are minimal, in many cases not there at all; the waistline is loose and quite supple. Different solutions favor  clearly soft results in front: darts with triangular topstitching define pleats; cuts at waist are higher in back, accentuated in front by gatherings or darts; tricot techniques enable a swelling of volumes; blousy effects get a boost from soft suede and chamois leather.

The colors: flanking classic black and navy blue are the primary colors – red, yellow, green, cobalt – softened by hints of iridescence, offset and/or brightened by an all-white very much on the scene for its sense of dazzling freshness. Knits as well benefit from iridescent effects, with fil-à-fil (end on end) giving a new twist even to traditional stripes. For a final note on the color front, dot prints make a perfectly sheer statement on organza.

The accessories: belts twotone (neutral & bright) or in black patent leather; flat pouches on belts; geometric handbags in beachchair-stripe canvas. Silk poplin scarves (made by I PARALLELI) in fine dot-on-band prints, plus beachchair-stripe voile sarongs. Shoes by GUIDO PASQUALI: low-heel loafers with cut effects; boating-type tie mocassins in canvas and terry-cloth; strappy white nappa sandals with high narrow heel. Light wool ribbed hose by SANTAGOSTINO.

Makeup by HELENA RUBINSTEIN.
Hairstyling LELLA.