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Collections — Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 1995

Press Release

“If I were to represent this collection by means of a single image I would say it purposely mixes sensuality and sentiment with technological expertise. Ultraclassic expressions and forms of the wardrobe come forth in freedom, with an ease of transformation and alteration ever accenting femininity, womanliness. All emerges in a standard, official way, according to set rules… and yet all is different, exciting, subtly provocative… Thus of the suit I have kept the soul: jackets in stretch piqué favoring body lines, pockets yielding to the hand. Of the pleated skirt I have maintained the effect of movement with semiappliqué bands on elastic tulle. Of the guêpière I sought to create only an illusion, for it derives from the blending of two contrasting principles: the technical features of a wetsuit and the pure pleasure of a very elasticized fabric. In pursuit of lightness I constructed an organza stretch jacket: as delicate as a sigh, with appliqué pockets and collar for the sensation of spots. I cinched the superlight trench in a white cotton voile with a transparent vinyl belt. I puffed up the white organza shirt… But to give it a note of vitality and suggest echoes of glamour, I also sprinkled it with fluorescent colors: pink, Polynesian sky blue, popsicle orange. For a true fireworks effect.”

Gianfranco Ferré

 

New classics in surprising dimensions, improbably large or small and short: the dress is as tiny as a swimsuit, the swimsuit as sumptuous as a dress. Genres intermingle in a shrewd subversive spirit. The classic blazer in a stretch fabric hugs the body, letting the collar slip on a shoulder or uncover both. The trench in double duchesse has the enticing hue of a fruit jelly. The blouson puffs up as if hit by a gust of wind. The severe marinière concludes in an amazing pleated skirt. Variations on the white shirt. At times it loses collar and sleeves, at others the garment becomes a mere draping around breasts. In vague recollection of school uniforms, the white shirt joins forces with the black skirt – but one cut in leather and set on stretch tulle. Or with creamtone leggings in an elastic silk knit and with the most romantic of mannish trousers in peach-blossom pink. In the logical play of references, sinuous dresses with ribbings and pleats, black or dark blue. Suits as supple as sweaters. Viscose and silk together in stripes or tricots for a complete series of debardeurs, sheaths, pants for sporting under stretch jackets. Pullovers boasting the importance of a dress: body-hugging in silk, cotton, cashmere; with white edges, elements reminiscent of shirts peeking out. Memories of a Riviera dandy style. Interminable high-waisted trousers, no creases, with jackets possibly diminishing almost to a top or to a bain de soleil bodysuit. In biscuit, cream, coffee black and pearl tones. Reflections in a clear eye. Silk cady and stretch organza for dresses, jeans and suits not concealing the body. Set off here and there by a pocket, a collar, a border. Lightness and chiaroscuro effects. Dresses in flight. Transparent trench coats and safari jackets. Magic lantern images on fabrics: coffee-bean and pindot motifs, a Venetianblind shadow the result of nappa leather bands on tulle. A trip with Warhol into the world of Gauguin. Tahitian tenderness, flowers of the lost seas, women wilh long hair. Electronic interpretations of dream visions in pop colors for T-shirts, sarongs and dresses. The Matisse leaf magnified and projected on pink silk. Playing with pink. Very glamorous, very smart. A suit similar to a supremely feminine wetsuit. A jacket shaped by hidden zips to unzip at will. Shoes and bags in neoprene like the silk-lined corset. Working wonders. A magical and metallic inhabitant of the sea, forged under water and under iron, with simil-anaconda scales for blouses and blousons. Navy blue pants. Softness and sense of balance, a line flowing and feminine thanks also to a low waist, to the cuts and darts. For wearing with cotton pullovers. Inside out. Culottes and guêpières in full view, but free of fastenings, laces and embroideries. A perfectly feminine whalebone in the form of a gold stretch embroidery designs the bodice of the silk crepe dress with tulle inserts. Fashion party. The attitudes, modes and manners of a genuine diva. Vague memories of Liza in hot-pants. Gilda, Ava Gardner, Lauren Bacall, the gorgeous stars of always. Pool time in Hawaii. Water games, a vacation mood. Bubbly skirts with endless tufts of soft organza strings, worn under casually knotted shirts. Shocking shoes. New dimensions, a curious mix of ideas. The toe of men’s loafers, in contrast to a very high transparent heel. A thick platform-type sole in raffia. The derby tie shoe but with a heel. Silk and raffia ballerinas, round and light. liningless. All inspiring a sharp individual sense of freedom.

 

 


 

Bags - Belts - Bijoux - Glasses - Gloves - Shoes: Gianfranco Ferré

Hosiery: Pierre Mantoux (exclusive for Gianfranco Ferré)

Fabrics and yarns: Buche - Canepa - Clerici - Corisia - Cuccirelli - Cugnasca - Dondi Jersey - Europ - F.P.R. - Jackytex - Isa Seta - Manolo Borromeo - M. Mark - Ostinelli - Punto Seta - Ratti -Riechers - Serikos - Solstiss - Taroni - Tecnoslyle - Tria

Makeup: Francesca Tolot for Freelancer  with “The Professionals” products by Diana De Silva

Hairstyling: Aldo Coppola for L’Oreal Coiffure