• 1960
  • 1961
  • 1962
  • 1963
  • 1964
  • 1965
  • 1966
  • 1967
  • 1968
  • 1969
  • 1970
  • 1970
  • 1971
  • 1972
  • 1973
  • 1974
  • 1975
  • 1976
  • 1977
  • 1978
  • 1979
  • 1980

Collections — Man / Accessories

Fall / Winter — 1982

Press Release

Respect for tradition and a desire to renovate are the rules which I have followed in creating my first men’s collection for which I felt the necessity to underline the use and functions of certain important articles of the male wardrobe which, I think, have undergone transformations over the latter years which have distorted their significance.
So, I have itemized and seperated clothes for leisure wear which call for new ideas in the choice of materials and interesting technological solutions from clothes which can be classified as the traditional male way of dressing - the coat, the raincoat, the suit - and I shall respect their precise functions with a clear intent, avoiding what is mistakenly fashionable and what is mistakenly sporty.
In this way there is an obvious coherence in the choice of naturally soft, loose outlines with slightly fitted shoulders and a comfortable feeling, with natural proportions arrived at with a respect for precise and traditional measurements.
Equally clear and motivated is the choice of colours, strictly linked to the purpose of the clothes: on the one hand the neutrals, often rendered more vivacious by a brighter thread or a shepherds’ plaid or Prince of Wales check, on the other hand a range of dense colours such as crushed plum, mature olive, mustard and ending up with a great return to classical blue.

The details point out some of the fundamental themes of the collection: to start with, pants with a completely clear-cut line, totally unfussy, well-proportioned around the hips and width of the bottoms. One example in cotton cavalry twill lined in cotton and without pleats or else with ironed pleats but at the sides, full without being exaggerated and wearable with either a pullover or a classical blazer without losing any of its punch or image.

Jackets will respect a well-proven outline with harmonious proportion between revers, width of shoulders and point of waist: worn with matching or non-matching pants, lined or not, single or double-breasted. I feel that the jacket should regain its importance both as a formal piece of clothing or for leisure wear.

For shirts I have observed two fundamental principles: if worn with a tie, a shirt must be more or less formal (fabrics are also traditional oxfords and poplins) and the attention drawn to a well-formed and neatsitting collar; if created for leisure wear I have emphasised its functionality: brought back the use of a lining at the front in the best English shirt-making tradition. Others have a waistcoat with a lining to match the shirt or are worn over a T-shirt.

Leather clothing has been planned for leisure time and sport due to its qualities which guarantee compactness, comfort and strenghth. Leather jackets, blousons and pants are classics to me, and are offered in a basic cut avoiding useless complications and accessories. Newer types of skin are used such a leather which has been sueded and then smoothed in colours traditionally used for this type of articles and with a choice of linings, fake fur, nylon and cover coat which again have also been always associated with mens’ wear.

Knitwear is only used for leisure clothes with a preference for a flat, consistent knit using alpaca, cashmere and camel with a new feeling for trimmings in leather, fustian, cavalry twill or rainproofed cotton gaberdine.

Accessories
Crêpe-soled shoes, thick-soled laced moccasins, shoes with a classical toe-cap and lacing which are also shown in duJl natural crocodile belts in fustian, crocodile and colourful heavy sanded leather cachemire scarves
regimental-striped ties on a fantasy weave background, ties with large aisley-patterned squares

Fabrics
Double-weave cotton sateen, double cavalry twill in wool for raincoats. For suits, lightweight cover coat and fantasy weave cheviots with a bright thread in a double weave, grisailles. For jackets, cavalry twill and woollen reps, fustian, camelhair in a large diagonal weave and also in checks with raised surface. Pants in cotton and wool double weave cavalry twill, woollen reps and fustian. Shirts in oxford and cotton gaberdine, plain or striped poplin, fine self-striped silk, cotton voile or honeycomb picqué. Knitwear in camelhair, cashmere and alpaca. Leather, kid with a slightly sueded surface, suede, all used for the articles in skin.

Suppliers
Cotonificio Monti - Fila - Fintes - Garlanda - Guabello - Its Artea - Larus Miani - Loro Piana - Tessitura Limonta - Testa - Torello Viera Wheatley : per i tessuti
Filati Pucci - Lanificio dell’Olivo - Linea Più - Zegna Baruffa : for the woolen-yarns
Corius: for the leathers