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Collections — Man / Accessories

Fall / Winter — 1993

Press Release

”Times are changing, we’re moving into a period in a certain sense realer, sterner than we’ve been accustomed to, one inducing in me a conscious rejection of escapism and exoticism, of all revivals too. Whether baronets or hippies, these looks appear to me as pointless references to social/cultural trends which could never re-emerge as before… Meanwhile, a need for tradition expressing a firm sense of comfort and reality through definite, well-established forms comes forth ever more forcefully, exactingly. A bent for evasion as well draws from the city. the urban setting of particular sports reflecting specific atmospheres, manners and modes … Boxing, for example, with its intense classic echoes… The overall result is a wholesome elitism, an unwavering trueness to our inner selves, to what we really want and feel… ”

(notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on January 4, 1993)

Moving forward on the basis of instincts and sensations, constructing the lexicon of a style developing naturally season after season, a certain concept of taste emerges subtly, surely, logically. Thus the sports jacket grows longer, and the fourbutton double-breasted becomes an eight-button one. The bright colors take on a mellow patina, effecting a shadowy depth… The fabrics have a texture and volume making the tones all the softer, as in the white and black of the terryish wools and the fluffy materials drawing from technical T-shirts, or the navy wool crepe in a microbraid weave, or the pullover a blend of chenilles… Chalk-stripes come in multiple interpretations: carbon-copy blue with black, dark brown with brick, green with navy, navy with red or pumpkin stripes…
By modifying the order of the addenda, the result changes. In the arithmetic of fine taste, the way of mixing, assembling and wearing the various elements is what makes for a new image. The camel coat - as soft and smooth as a blanket or robe - is worn over a T-shirt and pinstripe jeans, as well as over flannels. The blazers in cashmere, velvet or chenille ever dark of tone (bordeaux, navy blue, pine green) come in combo with black pullovers and pants, or with some chenille knit… The jackets in a seemingly boiled wool or in a heavy wool/silk satin may also sport decisive colors, vibrant shades… The puttytone knee-length trenchcoat with shearling collar adds extra warmth to the flannel clothes underneath. The suits in a rich thick-weave wool are supple, liningless, offering the quiet ease of a pullover…

Accessories GIANFRANCO FERRE’: Belts - Glasses - Gloves - Hats - Scarves - Shoes - Socks - Ties - Umbrellas

Fabrics: Bocchese - Boggio Casera - Borgomaneri - Bossi - Braghenti - Campore - Dondi Jersey - Ferla - Fila - Fintes - Jackytex - Lanificio Colombo - Larusmiani - Lessona - Limonta - Loro Piana - Manifattura Ferno - Manolo Borromeo - Moessmer - Ormezzano - Pontoglio - Rivertex - Solbiati - Solbiati Sasil - Sordevolo - Tessitura di Tollegno – Thomas - Torello Viera - IWS

Yarns: Filpucci - Filatura di Tollegno - Linea Più - Zegna Baruffa - IWS