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Collections — Man / Accessories

Fall / Winter — 2000

Press Release

“Bordering between pure fantasy and design vision, as a little boy I always associated the concept of future with an extreme and potent image… helmets, heavy shoes, jumpsuits that obliterate the body…

Of those long-ago wanderings of my imagination, now filtered and purified, what remains is my conviction that the future can provide objects which guard and protect us yet are human too… in the sense that they take shape on the basis of a firm grasp of the body, with the express intent to render it at once more powerful and more beautiful. The man for whom these garments are made has consciously and deliberately been cultivating his body more and more over the years. And, as someone who takes pleasure in his appearance, he chooses real clothes: of superb quality, workmanship and cut, ever supple in adapting to movement and form. Moreover, moving fast, darting through to movement and form. Moreover, moving fast, darting through traffic, living in an urban dimension, he equips these clothes to meet personal needs with anatomical supports – chestguards, kneepads, armbands – that he can remove with mere stroke of Velcro. Elements streamlining and strengthening clothes which once upon a time would have fit into the category of business apparel but which now simply represent the standard male uniform, 2skin”. Always in the finest and surest of fabrics – sometimes stretch, other times crêpe.

Whether for utter pleasure or outright comfort, the man might replace the shirt with a turtleneck pullover, so making for a cleaner, neater figure. And with the same ease he’d feel in putting on a suit he may opt for the padded double-nylon jacket with pockets than can slip off and become gloves; then round out the look with his thermal wool pullover and body-hugging pants. In line with his own code of freedom and natural cool, he wraps himself in faux-knit fabrics and in a clingy cashmere velvet. Meantime, seeing no more boundaries between casual and elegant styles, he sports the camel-colored sheared Mongolia coat indifferently over sweater and suit, pairs the vicuña coat up with jeans, the snug somewhat Austro-Hungarian jacket with the soft new double-wool jeans.

All comes across free and easy, yet fine and proper too. It’s a sense of equilibrium assuming a note of eccentricity through a particular belt, velvet pullover, velvet shoe with rubber sole. It’s a sense of emphasis never hinting of ostentation, not even when presenting magnificent genuine fur linings, manly and fanciful. Colors are refined, urbane: deep dull blue, green-black, warm vicuña. Distinctly dark hues set off by a white shirt, ever indicative of a mind fond of order. A man out to look good each and every time”.

Gianfranco Ferré

Accessories GIANFRANCO FERRE’: Socks - Belts - Ties - Gloves - Glasses - Shoes - Scarves

Fabrics: Batolini – Bemberg Cupro – Bonotto – campore – canepa – Clerici – Colombo – Cugnasca – Ferla – Fila –F.P.R. – Girani – Giuseppe Botto – Gruppo Dondi – Jackytex – Lessona – Limonta – Loro Piana – Mnifattura Ferno – Manolo Borromeo – Mauro Spriano – Moessmer – Piacenza – Pontoglio – Redaelli Velluti – Ricceri – Serikos – Soies eFrance – Sordevolo – Tessile Sperimentale – Tessitura di Quaregna – Tessitura di Tollegno – Torello Viera – Verga – Zamori

Hair Styling: Victoria’s

Photos: Julian Hargreaves

Show Production: Sergio Salerni – e20