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Collections — Man / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1990

Press Release

Back in my personal lexicon are concepts such as an awareness of tradition, a sense of calm, a respect for certain colors and styles…
All for a fundamental wardrobe which I keep redefining, fine-tuning through the themes which mean the most to me: exquisite tailoring and destructured ease. Set off this time by a touch I see as at once eccentric and moralist, reminiscent of a British colonial lifestyle. As if I had blended the films of Ivory, the novels of Forster, the books of Kipling, the feel of so much Anglo-Saxon literature. But with a note of coldness, inevitability. In line with the words of Vita Sackville-West: “I believe it has been ever since that ridiculous dinner in Calcutta. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have gone to Fatihpur Sikhri… “.

(notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on June 27 1989)

CONCEPTUALIZING THE LINE

Suits under the Sartorial label with particular, precise proportions, the fine wearability emblematic of ready-to-wear, yet finishings in great part manual. Double-face garments, such as the bomber jackets in linen and mosquito netting. A taste for measured forms with dropped shoulders.

SAVORING INTENSE COLORS

Full-bodied nuances in contrast with neutrals in ice tones. Earthy browns in mix with gray. White and brown instead of the usual white and black. The purple, ruby red and copper of antique carpets and silk cloths. Traditional military olive greens. Navy blue, if necessary.

DIVINING NEW USES FOR FABRICS

Thick-textured silk in regimental stripes for the jacket worn with dark red bermudas. Lightweight iridescent crepes of British origin. Panama prints. Double-scale silk. Linen, silk and cotton for knits treated with a soda wash for a soft, polished effect. A constant presence of airy double-weave fabrics.

RE-INTERPRETING MATERIALS

Giant-scale brown iguana for the bomber jacket . Shiny black nabuk. Slipper-style shoes with vulcanized soles for a light, elastic step.

Fabrics: Barbera - Bocchese - Boggio Casero - Bonotto - Bossi - Braghenti - Calvino - Carding - Tex - Carpini - Dondi Jersey - Ferla - Fila - Fintes - Hausammann e Moos - Jackytex - Larusmiani - Lessona - Loro Piana - Mantero - Rivertex - Solbiati sasil - Tessitura di Tolegno - Thomas - Torello Viera - IWS

Yarns: Filpucci - Filatura di Tollegno - Linea Più - Zegna Baruffa - IWS

Photos: Aldo Castoldi