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Collections — Man / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1992

Press Release

Glancing through the books of Jules Verne. Rereading Robinson Crusoe… “When I woke up it was already day, the air calm and storm diminished so that the sea was no longer surging furiously. But what surprised me most was seeing the tide rise… ” Thinking back on the wonders of the Nautilus, the mix of imagination, memories, sense of nostalgia arising from the travels of Captain Nemo to the very depths, inner limits of the world…

“I find fascinating the technology inherent to the deep-sea diving suit… the utmost in technical design for moving with the utmost naturalness,” Gianfranco Ferré explains. “On the basis of this feeling, I sought to rummage through an imaginary trunk, amidst uniforms of the past and instruments of the future. I plunged the uniforms into a blue that becomes black, into a blue that turns to turquoise. Into sea water for streaking and fading, into salinity for singeing. Amidst nettings, coats-of-arms, rubber… Leaving, for example, on the cables of fishermansweaters an opaque waterproof patina attained through a tarring process… For I am moving ahead with my research on natural elements, those things which, whether the fruit of nature or the result of some technological transformation, have a special bonding with man.”

In this modern-mariner mood in the style of Stevenson, the classic metal buckle comes in polyurethane. The nylon net features electric colors drawing from deep-sea diving equipment. The navy blue regatta sweatshirt takes the shape of a marsupium-pouch to tie on at waist. The windbreaker has a silk poplin hood to fold and hide away in the pocket.

Cabans and macs go through both a rubberizing and another process similar to the one used in preparing the diving suit for submersion.

In contrast, then, styles almost purposely stiff, impeccable, proper. The seemingly starched shirt, formal double-breasted and sports jackets, pure washed white. Sweet close-textured fabrics: tussah, heavy and loose-weave linens, doubleweight crêpe. Leather double-soled and English-style shoes, but comfortable models too: rubber-soled ones, flat sandals, lightweight espadrillas.

(notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on June 18, 1991)

Fabrics: Barbera - Bocchese - Boggio Casero - Borgomaneri - Calvino - Campore - Dondi Jersey - Ferla - Fila - Fintes - Hausammann e Moos – Jackytex - Lessona - Limonta - Loro Piana - Rivertex - Solblati Sasil - Tessitura di Tollegno - Thomas - Torello Viera - Zignone - IWS

Yarns: Filpucci - Filatura di Tollegno - Linea Più - Zegna Baruffa - IWS

Photos: Giampaolo Barbieri