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Collections — Man / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1996

Press Release

“What designing for men means, what values and manners clothes imply… these are the thoughts guiding my work, the ideas I continually seek to pinpoint and define. Perfectly aware that deliberate excesses and analyses distance us from our culture, diminish our grasp of everyday life - the rules of behavior we must be familiar with and somehow respect - I focused on the flexibility of the traditional formulary, bypassing all disguises and gags … Keying in increasingly to the relationship between substance and form, I heightened the impact of textile research in terms of both finishings anel weaves; I also experimented with innovative material mixes and transformations. Firmly satisfying classic standards of fine taste, yet drawing upon a supple contemporary sense of style, favoring men’s new energy, deep need for feeling and looking good. A need indulging in no narcissism, no self-congratulation. Instead, expressing a vibrant personality, a strong physical presence and a genuine self-knowledge …”

Gianfranco Ferré

FORM
A balance of opposites: while maintaining the most elementary and determinate characterislics of male dressing by means of suitable shoulders and lapels, the jacket changes consistency. It takes on an easy fit and a feather weight in a natural triple crêpe; comes forth basic and compact in a stretch wool; is short, small and snug of style in a calendered linen. Thick knit fabrics in viscose and nylon enhance the loose effect. Soft trousers, set off by sturdy shoes with light elaslic soles; or tighter pants, tapered along hips.
COLOR
A range of neutral nuances, from white to sand to an enticing hazel-nut hue. The silence of gray. the depth of black and dark blue. Decorative notes of red.
The most striking of patterns: emphatic checkerboards in black and white; enormous stripes in gypsum and coal tones for shirts (the result of a particular type of patchworking); giant glen plaids for jackets in an elegant Casinò style; neon pinstripe suits in a night-in-Portofino look; mariner stripes in white and navy blue.
STRETCH
Energy and fitness, impact and impetus. For breaking free from the severity of the suit and favoring the intrinsic agility of the sportive individual, an elastic thread runs through jackets, trousers, shirts. It underlines movements all the while respecting the formal structure of clothes, gives substance and density to fabrics.
BODY
The sign of action, accent of a gesture: that special technique, calendering - which enhances cottons and linens with a glossy handle - becomes a signature, a distinguishing element. Every movement cuts a light pleat, leaves a trace. Every garment acquires a highly personal shape, becomes a second body.
UNIFORM
An impeccable and familiar lexicon taking on expression through the image of all black, in turn accentuated by the white poplin shirt (all-stretch). The comfort of a work uniform, up to date of appeal, for the sand or brown crêpe suits with little button-hole at the collar. The smooth practicality of pliable sporty jackets in parachute-cloth, with bellows-pleals and even fullnesses. Gray cotton sateen outfits and thick full-textured chalkstripes surpass any sense of formalism to reach the root of tradition.

Accessories GIANFRANCO FERRE’: Belts - Glasses - Gloves - scarves - Shoes - Socks - Ties

Fabrics: Bartolini - Bellora - Bocchese - Braghenti - Campore – Canepa - Clerici Tessuto - Cugnasca - Dondi Jersey - Fila - Fintessile - Jackytex - Larusmiani - Lessona - Limonta - Linea Ardizzone - Loro Piana - Manifattura Ferno - Manolo Borromeo - Mauro Spriano Paganini - Paolo Gilli - Piacenza - Ratti - Serikos - Seterie Schiera Solbiati Sasil - Sordevolo - Taroni - Tessitura di Quaregna -Tessitura di Tollegno - Torello Viera

Yarns: Filpucci - Iafil - Linea Più - Zegna Baruffa