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Collections — Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1987

Press Release

For dressing twixt normality and formality, let the raincoat be only of the purest wool gabardine, with tailored vigour, the jacket in veritable Harris tweed softened with mohair yarn (a soft impression but a rustic look).

Let the superlight trench coat be loose and baggy, the car coat short and well-constructed.

Let the outline be clear, the spirit severe: each colour according to tradition, blue where the use of blue is imperative, grey and black where normally used but al so a range of indefinite colours, blended to obtain a monochromatic effect.

Let the design be neat and compact (leather re-inforced with a cotton lining for consistency yet elasticity) and the quality of craftsman level (stitching in camel hair inside the coats).

Let the fabrics, even the most exclusive, have a homely look yet a sophisticated spirit: double crêpe imitates wool, interlock jersey seems like a knit, mohair is worked on the reverse side like gaberdine, baby alpaca teams with lambswool.

“I believe in formal dressing… In classical clothes which can and must-be comfortable, without mixing-up roles, without confusing situations.

City dressing must follow precise rules, like leisure time, and must conform to a well-practised code.

However, experiences can be exchanged, that is permitted, as can certain solutions. And so, part of the research undertaken for Gianfranco Ferré which is a formal collection, is channelled into Oaks which is informal. Each of them, however, applies to different moments, different uses…

The man who chooses to dress Ferré applies the same principles as a collector or a stock broker: knowing that to dress is pleasure he chooses beautiful, solid objects which will last a long time. I am in fact convinced that it is obsolescense, the continual striving for something new which immediately seems old, which causes the inflation on the fashion planet”.

Classical clothes without mixing-up

(from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferrè 5.1.1987)

Fabrics: Boggio Casero - Braghenti - Calvino - Carpini Capritex - Dondi Jersey - Fila - Fintes - Gommatex - Hausammann e Moos - Its Artea - Larusmiani - Lessona Limonta - Loro Piana - Lanificio Piacenza - Redaelli Velluti - Rivertex - Tollegno - Torello Viera - Whiteley e Green.

Yarns: Biagioli - Cardintex - Filatura di Tollegno - Lineapiù - Ricignolo - Texwell

Gianfranco Ferrè thanks CESARINI SFORZA for the “spumante”.