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Collections — Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1989

Press Release

“What I have prepared here is an orthodox wardrobe. A constant set which at this point has its own classification… for, following rules established in the Ferré tradition and, beyond this, perfecting the idea of ease, destructurization, I have given new meaning to the concept of tailoring… I have also added a deliberate eccentric touch, one that is however unlike anything usually associated with the term… More than a question of snobbism, I would say the collection reflects a mental reworking of what has always existed in men’s apparel…”

(Notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on January 2, 1989)

IN TERMS OF TRADITION

The suits with the SARTORIAL label feature precise, specific proportions and, at the same time, the smoothness and ease emblematic of ready-to-wear. Finishings are in great part hand-done, fabrics always exquisite (cashmere, camelhair, alpaca). The double-face articles reflect that modern taste for mixing different moods: for example, cashmere blends, washed for a softer looser look, and crêpe fabrics, ever lightweight and easy to wear.

AT THE BASIS Of THE LINE

Garments soft, full of body, in no way rigid. A return to the spartan rustic comfort inherent in Harris tweeds, irregular mélanges and teaseled mohairs. Reinvigorated, however, with a certain uniform spirit made up of flannels and meltons in shades of gray from smoky to anthracite, of vyellas and Harris tweeds in a basic gray. A Russian revolution. One nuance over the other, interpreting that sense of easy elegance typical of a well-traveled Englishman.

A MIX OF UNEXPECTED NOTES

Hints of Anatolia and of Persian carpets in the spindled tricots, and in the rusty-tone patchworks reflecting a feel for old trunks, kilim carpets rolled up for generations, the binding of antique books. A nostalgic rigor in the voile dress shirts. Or those in silk crêpe (in front) and cotton (in back), or in a finely pleated crêpe de chine with a stiffer vyella in back.