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Collections — Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1991

Press Release

“Moving forward with my work, verifying day by day what I designed, I came to realize that I instinctively create what I would define a natural wardrobe, one with which I have a deep bond. Following no preconceived outline beyond overall lines and cultural models, responding rather to my own feelings and impressions… A romantic man could dress perhaps in a soft shirt, no tie… a man more formal and yet with the easy manner emblematic of an upper-class upbringing might opt for navy blue…

The individual’s personality is what determines his choices, but all on the basis of personal co-ordinates for moving within a panorama clearly European of roots. For this civilization of ours has always played a determinant role in the development of men’s apparel”

(Notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on January 9, 1991)

European images like the ones films, books and old photographs leave imprinted on the mind.

The black of London suits, for an effect at once urbane and Victorian. The dark, almost muddy green emblematic of Berlin and the rapport between nature and city, the military-industrial style typical of the Tyrol. The gray reminiscent of an early 20th century Paris, of a conservative French bourgeois mode of dress.

Colours expressed through certain conventional forms: the coat snipped in the waist, the loden in a Middle European cut, the overcoat Anglo-Saxon of inspiration but with a greater sense of comfort and ease. And so the long coat goes knee-length, the short jacket heads downward and becomes an authentic car coat.

A wish for cleanliness and precision, no excessive transformations: each fabric appears exactly for what it is, the flannel taking on again its customary texture, crêpe its usual dryness.

Leather and tricot respond to the needs of leisure time. The former refinds its elastic body, in interpretations neither overly new nor shiny. The latter reaffirms rather its flexible nature, with quilted hand-knit pullovers as soft and versatile as can be.