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Collections — Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 1986

Press Release

“I have thought of a new fluency, of a suppleness which is born of a deep-rooted culture, which restores the pleasure of certain materials, of certain combinations, which becomes taste, choice, behaviour. Everything is comfortable, within the stamp of a traditional education… Just as my way of thinking about masculine clothes is traditional, clothes created with a sense of relax , a casualness which has by now become the vocabulary of my work. If I should choose a word, a phrase to mark the collection, I should say: without problems. Without problems, the blue, which with the same spirit becomes black, or brown right up to wine, and which mixes with white.

Without problems, the sports jacket, if it is necessary. Or the jacket, or the suit. With a maturity of behaviour, a certainty which is the precise sign of taste”.

(from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on 2/07/85)

New relaxation. With jersey in wool and linen, or linen and viscose. Every canon of tailoring must be respected for the jackets, but they are loose and without structure.

New severity. With a vaguely “uniform” image: t-shirt and trousers in the same colour and consistency, sometimes completed by a jacket. A jacket which annuls the value of a shirt, with a stand-up collar, severe. The narrow shirt, to be worn outside the trousers, with bias cuts which put the fullness into perspective. The blue is freshened up by China cloth, neutral and colonials hues.

New texture. With identical modelling in different materials: piqué knit in poor cotton, noble silk in brilliant hues. Always plushes but in wool and the most typical colour: blue. Always the classic suits in grisaille, linen, pin-dotted chalk stripes: double-breasted, white shirt, and regimental, dotted and striped ties. But also camouflaging, almost invisible, ice on white.

New practicality. With a very long mackintosh, but also very light in dense hues. Or to the knee, in solid canvas, or in double and stiffened cloth, or in rigid gabardine. With a straight sports jacket, which does not mark the waist or wrap the hips. With a simply cut shirt, in fluffed drill, silk, poplin. But also with a certain thickness, firmness: in China cloth, linen gabardine, washed so that it loses its stiffness and becomes shiny. Or printed: dots on dots, graphic elements as for ties, enlarged symbols.

New casualness. With “houseboy stripes” blue on red, the blue blazer and the peach colour shirt of a playboy. (But the blue blazer lends itself to six different combinations. With the freshness of formal wool teamed with a t-shirt. With mattress stripes mixed with ultra-light leather, saddle-stitched. With shoes in buckskin and the sole in various layers of buffalo. Or the espadrilles in red and pink cloth. Or with moccasins with rubber soles and unlined leather uppers, like slippers.

New formality. With the dinner jacket in silk cloth or white piqué over a white polo. With a thick linen blazer, but loosely structured. With touches of pink and of red on traditional trousers.