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133

Collections — Woman / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1981

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

“I looked for essential fabrics. In a suit? Gabardine or poplin as an alternative to linen. For a blouse? Striped gauze, solid crêpe in navy or white. With a summer halter top and skirt? Feathery light Flanders silk.
I favored the basic colors that are always elegant: navy, natural white, khaki. Adding the suggestion to wear them with a “red rock” brown or tabacco hue.
I focused on construction, not constriction: flat pleats, roulot seams, gold or colored topstitching, caftan-cut sleeves, asymmetrical inserts at hips for blouses as well as leather blousons”.

“I wished for spring-summer ‘81 to have a sole possible solution: reclaim a dimension of comfort, amusement, vitality; in other words, fulfill the primeval purpose of clothes. No mere throwing on blankets or rags for warmth. No mere dressing for reasons of status either.
My idea of “chic-to-chic” comes from the spontaneity of elegant women: for example, navy or white cabans with billowy folded-pleat sleeves, worn with vaguely Moroccan pantskirts in tobacco colored leather.
I wanted to give back to the suit the neatness of collarless jackets, burberry style buttons, and flat thin wrap pleats: one at the back, another along the lapel, pockets and slits.
I looked for essential fabrics. In a suit? Gabardine or poplin as an alternative to linen. For a blouse? Striped gauze, solid crêpe in navy or white. With a summer halter top and skirt? Feathery light Flanders silk.
I favored the basic colors that are always elegant: navy, natural white, khaki. Adding the suggestion to wear them with a “red rock” brown or tabacco hue.
I focused on construction, not constriction: flat pleats, roulot seams, gold or colored topstitching, caftan-cut sleeves, asymmetrical inserts at hips for blouses as well as leather blousons.
I transformed pants: to keep them as an irreplaceable part of the wardrobe but at the same time take them out of a “classic” dimension, I reinvented Moroccan pants – over the ankle, under the knee. Not even a hint of folk look.
I challenged the banality of the jumpsuit, trying to think of it with clean square cuts, like cut-out dresses for paper dolls.
I surrendered to a touch of undulation: long navy crepe dresses, straight and sexy, falling softly down to gathered hems, legs in sight, V-neck collars opening into two long lapels”.

Gianfranco Ferré