• 1960
  • 1961
  • 1962
  • 1963
  • 1964
  • 1965
  • 1966
  • 1967
  • 1968
  • 1969
  • 1970
  • 1970
  • 1971
  • 1972
  • 1973
  • 1974
  • 1975
  • 1976
  • 1977
  • 1978
  • 1979
  • 1980
133

Collections — Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 2003

Press Release

“My approach to style for men has always held what I wouldn’t hesitate to call an educational factor. While this surely entails respect for rules, indication of norms, application of codes, today it means primarily capturing a natural way of being, a profound sense of ease which underlines a distinct propensity for moderation and comfort.

In my new design for calmness and measure emerges the supreme expression of an unchanged logic of excellence which finds its clearest lexicon in the absolute quality of materials. Beginning with linen and silk, which I favored in the most naturally full-textured and less sophisticated of varieties, exploiting thick and relief weaves to enhance the fluidity and ease of garments. For wool instead, I chose the lightest variants so as to make it an authentic summer fabric. Then for leather, only superb and extrasupple versions.

In an utterly spontaneous play of assonances, I calibrated shapes in relation to the intrinsic properties of materials. I did slim fits exclusively in stretch fabrics (even ultrastretch), capturing an urge more for agility and vigor than for ostentation. In contrast, thanks to loose-weave fabrics I had the chance to devise more structured looks, ever perfectly neat. Ensuring a sartorial aplomb, precise and easy, evident in the business suit to wear with tie.

Equally logical, even if subtly so, is the scansion of colors. Which led me to privilege intense hues, intentionally conservative, very masculine: black brown, navy blue, plus brique in a surprising mix with gray for sportjacket/trousers. Red too, when present, reveals a special depth. Then almost in reaction, I felt compelled to tone down the impact with flashes of light, at once vibrant and delicate. Thus to heighten the freshness of the summer suit, I opted for supremely natural cream nuances, keeping pure white instead for the cotton organza shirts with à-jour openwork and for the tuxedos.

Moving in an essentially instinctive direction as for harmonies and references, I infused all items of the wardrobe – right down to accessories – with a strong sense of immediacy, devoting the usual attention to the pleasure of novelty and uniqueness. The knitwear offers the quiet elegance of polos and T-shirts in silk and silk/cashmere, ultra easy&light, thus ideal under any sportjacket. Shoes are strictly tie models, twotone, yet always comfortable with thin sole and no lining. The new eyewear – exclusive, supertechno – features ultralight, antiallergenic, nature-friendly magnesium… For wellness is a key component in this new and wonderfully bearable lightness of being. Which I feel in some way applies one of Mies van der Rohe’s finest rules: “We want to keep feet firmly on the ground yet have our head amidst the stars.”

Gianfranco Ferré